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    Finish oder Größe ändern

    By surface & project

    Wooden floors

    Paint them, or restore, colour and protect the wood

    RouteWhat you useWhat it gives you
    PaintFloor PaintA hard-wearing satin (40% sheen) in your colour; wooden floors only
    Wood: oilHard Wax Oil, in seven coloursA natural, low-sheen finish that can be repaired in patches
    Wood: lacquerMyLac (Matt, Satin, Gloss) or MyLac Extra (Matt, Satin Matt)A clear, sealed surface that is easy to clean; MyLac Extra is the toughest

    choose

    Paint it, or let the wood show

    The paint route

    Painting a wooden floor

    Floor Paint gives a hard-wearing satin in your colour, for wooden floors only. It covers about 15 m² per litre and goes on by brush, roller or spray, between 8°C and 30°C.

    1. Clean and sand

      Remove dirt, grease and anything loose, and sand to a sound surface. Vacuum the dust.

    2. Seal knots and prime

      Seal knots in bare boards first. Bare boards need priming: ask us which primer suits your floor.

    3. Two coats in a day

      Touch dry in 2 to 3 hours; recoat after 3 to 4 hours.

    4. Be patient

      Light use after 24 hours; fully cured after 7 days.

    Shop

    For painting a floor

    Shop Floor Paint
    • Bodenreiniger
      Bodenreiniger
      Angebot£11.83

    Or

    Want the wood to show instead?

    Wood finish

    Finishing the wood

    Clean it first and look again before you reach for the sander, colour it if you like, then oil it with Hard Wax Oil or lacquer it with MyLac.

    The wood route

    Should I clean or sand my floor?

    Clean first. Sanding is irreversible: it takes away the colour, patina and character that years of use have given an old floor, and once it is gone it is very hard to get back.

    1. Remove the grit

      Vacuum or sweep away all loose grit.

    2. Clean a small area

      Use a suitable cleaner and let it dry. On waxed floors, Wax and Polish Remover lifts years of wax and grime.

    3. Look again

      If the finish is sound and only dirty, a clean and a fresh maintenance coat may be all it needs.

    4. Sand only if you must

      Only when wear, deep damage or an unsuitable old coating make it necessary. Start at 80 grit and work up to 120, or 180 at most, depending on the wood and the product. On softwood, seal resinous knots with Shellac Barrier Seal for Floors, unless you’re oiling.

    How has it been finished?

    This decides the route. If you don’t know how the floor has been finished, take it back to bare wood, as guessing risks a new finish that peels, stays sticky or never bonds.

    Your floorWhat to do
    Oiled, dull or wornClean with Floor Cleaner, then re-apply Hard Wax Oil, even just to the worn areas. No sanding needed
    Waxed, sound but dullLift old wax and grime with Wax and Polish Remover, then re-wax with Liquid Floor Wax
    Lacquered, dull or lightly scratchedClean with Floor Cleaner, then apply Floor Refresher
    Lacquer worn through, damaged or an unknown finishSand back to bare wood and choose a full system

    Colour

    Changing the colour, and stopping it turning orange

    Most clear finishes warm the wood, and oak’s natural yellow can turn orange once a finish goes on. Counter that warmth at the colouring stage.

    1. Make a sample

      Test first on your own timber, on a spare board of your own floor, sanded the same way.

    2. Counter the warmth

      Earth Stain Chalk for a paler, natural look. Earth Stain Clay for a soft, smoked or grey-toned oak.

    3. Choose the finish

      Water-based lacquers such as MyLac Matt warm the wood less than oils. For an oiled floor, Hard Wax Oil Natural over your stain.

    4. Judge it dry

      Finish the sample with the same finish and coats, and judge it dry in the room’s own light.

    Already orange?

    Cleaning won’t remove it: the colour is in the finish and the wood. Sand back to bare wood, restain with a counter-tone such as Chalk and refinish, working to natural breaks such as doorways.

    Protect it

    Which floor finish should I choose?

    FinishLook and feelBest forUpkeep
    Hard Wax OilNatural, low sheen; the wood feels like wood. Seven coloursDomestic floors where you want a natural finish that can be repaired in patchesEasy top-up maintenance coats when traffic areas look dry
    MyLacClear protective lacquer in Matt, Satin or GlossLiving rooms, bedrooms, hallways, and many shops and officesClean regularly; recoat when worn
    MyLac ExtraTwo-pack lacquer in Matt or Satin Matt, our toughest finishBusy domestic and heavy-traffic commercial floorsClean regularly; recoat when worn
    WaxTraditional, warm and tactilePeriod floors where regular buffing and rewaxing is part of the charmRegular buffing and rewaxing with Mylands Wax Polish or Liquid Floor Wax

    Applying and care

    Applying a floor finish, and looking after it

    1. Plan your exit

      Start at the far side of the room and work back towards the door. Stop only at natural breaks, such as doorways or a change in board direction, never halfway along a board.

    2. Thin coats

      Apply along the length of the boards. Keep the room ventilated and at least 15°C for our lacquers.

    3. Lift, never drag

      For the first week, and put felt pads on chair and table legs. Each product page gives the coats and drying times.

    4. Keep the grit off

      Remove grit daily, clean with a barely damp mop and Mylands Floor Cleaner, and put a good mat at each entrance. Top up busy areas before they wear through.

    From the Mylands Experts

    Clean it first

    Martin, our wood finishing specialist, often tells the story of a floor that had come up beautifully with nothing more than a good clean and a fresh coat of wax. Years later, worn traffic areas led the owner to sand it, and despite every effort they could never quite recreate the colour it had before.

    His advice to anyone with an old floor: clean it first and look again before you reach for the sander.

    Shop

    For a wood finish

    Shop wood finishes
    • Hard Wax Oil NaturalHard Wax Oil Natural
      Hard Wax Oil Natural
      Angebotab £48.20
    • Mylac Matt
      Mylac Matt
      Angebotab £47.78
    • Mylac Extra Matt - 4.5 Litre & Härter - 500ml
    • ErdkreideMYLANDS EARTH STAIN CHALK ON OAK - Wooden panel with a natural finish on a white background
      Erdkreide
      Angebotab £16.55
    • Erdflecken-TonErdflecken-Ton
      Erdflecken-Ton
      Angebotab £16.55
    • Schellack-Barriereversiegelung für Böden
    • Bodenreiniger
      Bodenreiniger
      Angebot£11.83
    • Bodenauffrischer
      Bodenauffrischer
      Angebotab £16.91

    Or

    Painting the floor instead?

    Questions

    Floor questions

    What is the most hard-wearing finish for a wooden floor?

    MyLac Extra, our two-pack lacquer, is the toughest. It is designed for heavy-traffic commercial floors as well as busy domestic floors.

    Is hard wax oil or lacquer better for a wooden floor?

    Hard Wax Oil gives a more natural look and is much easier to look after: when it wears, you clean it and re-oil it, with no sanding back. Lacquer gives a sealed, harder-wearing surface that is easy to clean, but scratches are harder to repair invisibly.

    Why has my oak floor gone orange?

    The finish warms the wood’s natural yellow. Prevent it with a pale Earth Stain such as Chalk before finishing, and always test first on your own timber.

    Do I need to sand my floor before refinishing?

    Not always. An oiled floor never needs sanding back: clean it and re-oil it. A sound wax finish can be cleaned and re-waxed, and dull lacquer can be cleaned and refreshed. Sand back to bare wood if the lacquer is worn through or you don’t know how the floor has been finished.

    How long before I can walk on a newly finished floor?

    It depends on the finish. MyLac takes light foot traffic after an overnight dry and furniture after three days. Hard Wax Oil needs 24 hours before furniture. Floor Paint takes light use after 24 hours and is fully cured after 7 days. Each product page has the details.

    How do I clean a wooden floor without damaging it?

    Dry mop or vacuum first, then use Mylands Floor Cleaner diluted in warm water with a well-wrung mop.

    Can I use Floor Paint on concrete?

    No. Floor Paint is for wooden floors only, not concrete or cement.

    Need advice?

    Ask our team

    Call us on 020 8670 9161, Monday to Friday, or visit our showroom in West Norwood. We make every tin, so we can answer almost anything.

    Premium service from start to finish

    Your orders are made, packed and shipped with care from our London factory

    fast drying formula

    Complete your project in one day with our fast drying paints

    more pigment than any other paint

    Our Marble Matt Emulsion gives you unbeatable coverage and a flawless finish

    low climate impact

    Natural ingredients, manufactured sustainably, safe for your home and your family