Wood oil guide

Oil sinks in, feeds the wood, hardens and leaves the wood looking and feeling like wood. It is quick to refresh and can be touched up in patches, but needs topping up more often. Lacquer forms a tougher film on the surface and needs less maintenance, but repairs are harder to blend in.

Yes, as an optional first step. Wood Finishing Oil can go over Earth Stains, Light Fast Stains and Water Stains, and Hard Wax Oil Natural over Earth, Light Fast and Water Stains, with Water Stains the best match. Danish Oil, Pure Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil and Durax Teak Oil can go over Water, Light Fast and Earth Stains. Nitrostains don’t go under oil.

Let the stain dry completely first, and remember that oil deepens and warms any colour, so always test first on your own timber with the oil on top before you commit.

Oils warm wood more than a clear lacquer does, so the wood type matters.

• Oak turns from creamy to golden under oil, and can lean towards orange. If you want it paler, use a light Earth Stain such as Chalk first, or choose a coloured Hard Wax Oil on floors.
• Pine drinks oil readily and ambers noticeably, and the soft end grain soaks up far more than the faces. Expect more coats, wipe away surplus carefully, and test the colour first.
• Dense and oily hardwoods such as teak and iroko take oil slowly; thin coats and patience work best.

Wipe with a damp cloth and dry it straight away. Top up with a thin coat whenever the surface starts to look dry or water stops beading, rather than waiting for it to look worn. A little oil often is far easier than restoring a neglected finish.