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    Wood care

    Preparing and sanding

    Before oiling, staining, waxing or lacquering

    Step by step

    Seven steps to a good surface

    1. Assess before you sand

      What wood is it, and what finish is on it now? Do you want to keep its colour and patina? Clean a small area first and let it dry: you may find the finish is sounder than it looks.

    2. Clean off old wax and polish

      Sanding over wax, polish or grease smears it into the wood, clogs your paper and stops a new finish sticking. Lift it with Wax and Polish Remover, changing your cloth as soon as it is loaded. Clean finishes you want to keep with Furniture Cleaner and Reviver, and let everything dry.

    3. Sand through the grits

      Work up one grade at a time: each removes the scratches left by the one before. Always sand along the grain for the final grits. The grit guide gives the grades for each job.

    4. Remove every speck of dust

      Vacuum thoroughly, including gaps and corners, then wipe over with a barely damp, lint-free cloth. Dust left behind ends up trapped in the finish.

    5. Raise the grain for water-based finishes

      Wipe the sanded wood with a barely damp cloth, let it dry completely, then sand lightly with your final grit and dust off. With varnish and lacquer, a light denib with 240 grit between coats does the same job.

    6. Seal, if your system needs it

      Some finishes need a sealer underneath. The sealer guide shows which one goes with which system.

    7. Always test first on your own timber

      Take an offcut of the same wood, or a hidden area, through every step: sanding, stain, sealer and all your topcoats. Only then will you see the true colour and finish.

    Martin’s advice

    Do not assume sanding is the best way to restore something. Once the colour and character have gone, they are very hard to bring back.

    Next

    What grit to sand to

    Grit guide

    What grit should I sand to?

    ProjectStartFinish atWhy
    Damaged floors80120, or up to 180 at most, depending on the wood and the productLeaves the surface open so stain and oil can soak in
    Floors for Hard Wax Oil80120, or up to 180 at most, depending on the wood and the productRecommended final preparation for hard and soft woods
    Floors for MyLac and MyLac Extra80120, or up to 180 at most, depending on the wood and the productRecommended preparation on the technical sheets
    FurnitureClean thoroughly, then 120240 to refine, before staining, oil, wax or polishA finer finish for furniture, which does not need the same absorption
    Kitchen cabinets for varnish120240 to refineA smooth, keyed surface for a film finish
    Wood turningAs needed320 to 400 (up to 600 for friction polish)Stop the lathe and sand along the grain at each grit

    Martin’s advice: on oak floors, don’t over-sand. Going too fine can close the surface and stop stain or oil from soaking in properly.

    Next

    The sealer under your finish

    Sealing

    Which sealer goes under my finish?

    SealerUse it for
    2000 Pale Shellac Sealer BasecoatUnder French polish and wax, and in some stain systems
    Cellulose Sanding SealerWood turning and furniture under cellulose and friction finishes
    Acrylic SealerUnder water-based finishes, including wooden toys
    Shellac Barrier Seal for FloorsUnder water-based floor lacquer, especially over Water Stains or on resanded floors, or to seal knots. Stops the lacquer delaminating
    Patent Knotting and White KnottingSealing resinous knots in pine before painting

    From the Mylands Experts

    Why the finish is only as good as the preparation

    French polishers of old would spend far longer preparing a piece than polishing it. They filled the grain, cut back every ridge and sanded until the surface was flawless, because they knew shellac would magnify any mark left behind. Today’s finishes are quicker and easier to use, but that old truth has not changed. Take your time over the preparation, and the finish will look after itself.

    Shop

    For preparation

    View all preparation
    • Wax and Polish Remover
      Wax and Polish Remover
      Sale priceFrom £8.02
    • Furniture Cleaner and Reviver
      Furniture Cleaner and Reviver
      Sale priceFrom £11.90
    • 2000 Pale Shellac Sealer Basecoat
      2000 Pale Shellac Sealer Basecoat
      Sale priceFrom £11.89
    • Cellulose Sanding Sealer
      Cellulose Sanding Sealer
      Sale priceFrom £14.36
    • Acrylic Sealer
      Acrylic Sealer
      Sale priceFrom £14.36
    • Shellac Barrier Seal for Floors
      Shellac Barrier Seal for Floors
      Sale priceFrom £31.39
    • Patent Knotting
      Patent Knotting
      Sale priceFrom £11.89
    • White Knotting
      White Knotting
      Sale priceFrom £11.89

    Questions

    Preparation FAQs

    What grit should I sand to before staining?

    For floors, start at 80 grit and work up in increments to 120, or up to 180 at most, depending on the wood and the product. For furniture, clean thoroughly, then sand at 120, then 240 to refine. Too fine a finish can stop stain soaking in evenly.

    What grit should I sand to before oiling?

    For floors, start at 80 grit and work up in increments to 120 for Hard Wax Oil, or up to 180 at most, depending on the wood. For furniture, clean thoroughly, then sand at 120, then 240 to refine.

    Do I need to sand between coats?

    For varnish, lacquer and French polish, a light denib with 240 grit between coats gives a smoother finish. For oils, follow the product instructions.

    Why does my wood feel rough after a water-based finish?

    The water has raised the grain. Raise it deliberately before finishing, or denib after the first coat.

    Can I sand off old wax?

    Remove it first with Wax and Polish Remover. Sanding wax just clogs the paper and smears it into the wood.

    Need advice?

    Ask our team

    Call us on 020 8670 9161, Monday to Friday, or visit our showroom in West Norwood. We make every tin, so we can answer almost anything.

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